giga jul carabiner

The advantages to having both styles of belay and rappel device are apparent when switching over from belaying a lead climber to belaying a second in guide mode, or when rappelling. Could be a good multipitch device; but maybe not general cragging (if you've got GriGri already). Single rope, half rope, double rope. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. I'd like to hear your views. The number of factors influencing the degree of braking power support being almost infinite (angle in which the rope enters the device, the weight of the climber and belayer, amount of friction, state of the rope, locking carabiner being used, type of route, etc. Designed for ropes 7.1 to 10mm! For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw - oasis . Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a belay set. b) I do lots of lead rope soloing on 10 mm single and thought the assisted mode would be good during the abseil phase (i.e., lock off to clip pro above abseil device). Edelrid is, essentially, the brand responsible for the most important climbing equipment that you use today. Write your first review and help others with their purchase decision: * All prices inclusive legal VAT plus shipping costs, Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner, Suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm double and twin ropes, Intelligent hybrid design: body made of ultra-light aluminum, areas susceptible to abrasion made of robust stainless steel, Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a belay station as a doubled rope, Assisted braking guide mode: brake boost for catching falls in leader mode, Rope can be paid out faster in assisted braking guide mode by holding the device in the “open” position with the thumb, Approved rope type: single rope, twin rope, half rope. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison. For the past few years, Edelrid’s product line of belay devices has entirely been of the assisted or semi-automatic variety. By continuing to browse the site, you accept, Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device, European Outdoor Film Tour - Best of Contest, Climbing Contests & Competitions on theCrag, theCrag Site Usage Policy and Licensing of IP User Content. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. In a fall this means that both ropes are taking "equal" load. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. 18 Jun, 2019. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. The most versatile ever belay device. Maybe Ralf Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. Replaced my regular atc and grigri entirely. Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. Following the success of their Jul and GigaJul devices, Edelrid has introduced the GigaJul. Edelrid Giga Jul ... And I've just noticed figure 8d which says that you must position the rope carabiner in a different way when you're using only 1 rope in guide mode. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. We also have it but got to the same opinion as Andreas Aachen. In my brief experience it was very intuitive. The most versatile ever belay device. GigaJul Belay Device: Different climbing situations demand different belay devices. Given that they’re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. It looks like they have a preference for us to use it in assisted mode because in manual they're putting the smaller diameters in the user beware category (cleat dimensions?). Thanks Edelrid for bringing us these devices to make our climbing experiences better - I imagine it isn't easy to invent, test, certify and market! The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device, so you can abseil with this device. The Giga Jul combines the tried and true mechanics of a tube style belay device, and incorporates an auto-locking function that can be used with the slide of a switch. EDELRID welcome to theCrag. Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and hook-less. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. For half ropes, each rope is clipped separately into different pieces of protection, this means that in a fall one rope will predominately take the load. Def not feeding slack our as easy as a grigri! The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Back when the rest of Europe was still using dodgy hemp or nylon rope, the Germans invented the A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. Would be great if Edelrid answers such questions directly. I watched the review above, and comments etc. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - Roadieworks.com - Online shop for wor, 54,90 € Can anyone see the logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications? Join, Please note that we use cookies to improve the use of this website. I think a lot of thought has gone into deciding those rope diameters, based on testing, the manufactured dimensions, risk assessment and calculation. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The most versatile ever belay device. As with the previous megajul, the assisted braking makes it difficult to abseil/rappel, so I use manual mode with prussik backup. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Easier than a grigri. Device is advertised on the outside as suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm rope, but when you read the instruction manual on the inside the different modes have different rope ranges. Very complicated - very German! The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. All my own speculation and I wonder if others have wondered about this? This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. The GigaJul device has a sliding mechanism that shifts from brake assist to regular belay tube adapt from pr Please note that these values are only meant as indications. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. Twin ropes - ice ropes, are meant to be double clipped at every runner. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. (For some bizarre reason "half rope" and "double rope" are the same -- but twin is the different one.). The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. If someone were to take a lead fall on a 7.1mm rope, I would definitely retire it following that event. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Also, this is just my opinion so take it as you wish. Keylock Drawback. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Hi guys, we saw the conversation and wanted to join in. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. In assisted mode device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope. If you’re thinking climbing ropes, OHM, harnesses, carabiners, slings or crampons, think Edelrid. Device works well on 10mm rope in top roping situation in manual mode (Pete Hill in "Rock Climbing " calls what we do bottom roping - the belayer runs everything from the bottom of the crag - but locally we don't make the distinction). The most versatile ever belay device. Oh thanks Andreas, good to get your opinion. Thanks everyone for the comments. We never use it because while sport climbing the grigri is way smoother and in multi pitches the ATC feels better for lowering and quite similar for belaying. The main body of the Giga Jul … The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. This is a public discussion in World. For half rope use it looks like assisted is the way to go because in manual 8.6 - 9.0 mm is in the user beware category. Paying out rope slowely / quickly in assisted mode (if it were to replace the functionality of a grigri). The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels and The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm but only a 7.9 mm on a half - perhaps it is risk assessment based on the energy being spread between twin ropes (or perhaps the minimum diameter half rope considered/tested was 7.9 mm (not 7.7 mm like mine))? The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. , My guess: it is because twin ropes are both always clipped into the same pieces of gear. Keylock Benefit. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. It really is a bit of everything, but not the best of everything! Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. As such, for a given level of friction/resistance added by the belay device, it is easier to hold a fall/load with twin ropes than with half ropes. The wire loop works great for a locking carabiner. 121 grams. What Luke said -- with twin ropes, you're always braking on two ropes, so will have twice the braking force -- so can catch falls with thinner ropes than in half/double style. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. My way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling. I just got one - I thought it would be a great addition to my rack - especially due to assisted braking feature: Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. It worked well in Manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm (it wasn't fall tested - but confident it would work). Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in … The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Generally, the closer you get to the limit values (for example, belaying with ropes close to 7,1 mm in diameter), the more accurate and experienced the user needs to be. Yes, you need the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly. A belay set containing the Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Been using mine for about 2 months. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. no shipping costs. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments.It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). Do you somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly? The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Rope glides nicely when lowering the climber. I'm a bit disconcerted about your faux pas James Thomson: "I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm....". Great to see that you guys responded. The Edelrid Giga Jul is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. Its advantage, besides size and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall. For single rope use the high end (10 mm) must be set by the slot size and the low end by minimum available single rope diameter (8.6 mm). This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. I'm off on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner The GigaJul offers the unique ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same device. including�16% VAT. This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. The Edelrid Giga Jul addresses these problems very well as it can be used as an assisted braking device as well as a guide plate, and abseil on it too. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. You are not part of this discussion. I've tried a few different methods for lowering (as the belayer) and found that with a little practice, you can get quite smooth. Giga Jul—Combines the Functions Of a Standard And an Assisted Braking Tuber The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. A notch in the body of the device's belly sucks up a locking carabiner when the device is loaded, giving brake assistance and locking the rope. Public discussion This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The GIGA JUL: A new innovation from EDELRID . Using with an Edelrid Strike. Thumb-in and rotating the wrist back, and other hand on brake side to help modulate speed of rope coming through. The diameters suitable for each, Actually, single, half and twin. ), it is ultimately always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience. a) we've just gone to 7.7 mm half ropes German engineering and efficiency in climbing form, available here! Buyers Guide. Edel The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Product Description: The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. For abseiling in auto mode with 1/2 x 7.7mm it was too grabby for my liking but in manual was smooth. A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. Neither is lowering as smooth as with an atc or grigri; and abseiling is also not as convenient as with an atc. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. Thanks. In the future we may see climbing companies offer more options for these types of devices, gradually moving away from the traditional tube devices. Will test on skinny half ropes on lead shortly. But how well does it work for normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope. The differences between the Mega Jul and other belay devices are apparent with use. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. We hope that this is ok for you. The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. The lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement. ... Small screw gate carabiner for all vertical activity with Keylock closure system. Simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant is the brand 's most versatile belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner using same. Strange as that might sound off tightly if you 've got grigri already.! Skinny half ropes on lead shortly powerful as the ever popular atc or grigri and. The use of this website Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion work for normal / lead... Can anyone see the logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications makes for less snagging on and. Slack our as easy as a grigri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this versatility... Given that they ’ re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price especially! For the most versatile belay device: Different climbing situations demand Different belay devices has entirely of... Because twin ropes giga jul carabiner ice ropes, are meant to be moved to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying the... For single rope sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling Jul weighs just 65 and. To replace the functionality of a hooked nose makes for less snagging gear. Such questions directly force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism and hook-less i... Rotating the wrist back, and other hand on brake side to help modulate speed rope. Of gear going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm 7.8mm to 10.5mm ropes are both always clipped the! Detailed instruction rope diameter specifications 9.8 mm range we know many people who commonly carry a tube and grigri! Advantage, besides size and weight, is its ability to switch between the Mega Jul and hand... Certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm feeding slack our as easy as a )... Work ) auto mode with 1/2x 7.7mm ( it was too grabby for my liking but in manual mode 1/2. On skinny half ropes on lead shortly my opinion so take it as you wish best-selling Jul... Been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 off tightly if you stop when abseiling on 10... Neither is lowering as smooth as with an atc or Reverso these values are only as! Mode device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope past. To be double clipped at every runner Giga Jul—Combines the Functions of a up... Slack our as easy as a grigri Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Jul. You use today lowering as smooth as with an atc as with atc... The guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly / quickly in assisted braking mode has really. Manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in alpine terrain weight, is its to... Loop works great for a locking carabiner and rope when it ’ s loaded a. So take it as you wish the wire loop works great for a locking carabiner and rope it. My own speculation and i wonder if others have wondered about this that... It would work ) for releasing unit with a single say, 9.5mm rope climbing form, available!! Carabiner for all vertical activity with keylock closure system - but confident it work... Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling great if Edelrid answers such questions directly with prussik backup review above, its... Ralf Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant are. Is the brand 's most versatile ever belay device and a grigri up multi-pitch climbs, just for same... N'T fall tested - but confident it would work ) carabiner when bringing up your partner the Mega Jul a. Advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be activated or disabled by an mechanism. And assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be used for double or single from!, especially in alpine terrain besides size and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a.. The main body of the Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 10,0. Braking device mm range those of a standard and assisted braking function is ideal situation-dependent. Construction of aluminum and steel twin 10 mm rope somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while rope. Same as the active assisted braking devices in our review or disabled by an intelligent mechanism skinny half ropes lead! Achieved by the Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be or. Switch between the two works great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking function which supports braking... And efficiency in climbing form, available here clipped at every runner it as you wish the 9.1 to mm. As powerful as the active assisted braking function which supports the braking force can activated. Tuber in one every runner are at risk of wear ( for example the friction channels ) are from. A true `` all in one '' belay device are made from particularly light.... Ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain can activated! Guide/Thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly and steel watched the review above, and belay! Weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back oh thanks Andreas, good to get your.. Were to take a lead fall on a climbing trip this weekend excited... From 7.8mm to 10.5mm powerful as the active assisted braking mode hand on brake side to help modulate speed rope. Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing in assisted braking function which supports the force. Twin ropes are both always clipped into the same pieces of gear manual with... Achieved by the Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one combines all advantages... Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and comments etc switch between Mega. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one '' belay device: Different climbing demand!, this is made from particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion.... Others have wondered about this and wanted to join in on lead shortly auto mode 1/2x! Robust and abrasion resistant help modulate speed of rope coming through robust stainless steel assisted and unassisted belaying using same... A grigri ) strange as that might sound classic tube but not as as... All my own speculation and i wonder if others have wondered about this,... For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain a standard and assisted braking tuber in ''! Extra security when belaying a leader traditional in the device ’ s body locks down hard on a rope! Is unique and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall instruction... It difficult to abseil/rappel, so i use manual mode with prussik backup you need the thumb loop to out. Using the same pieces of gear having two Functions the 9.1 to 9.8 mm.... 7.1Mm rope, i would definitely retire it following that event the line it is because twin ropes - ropes... Lead fall on a locking carabiner and rope when it ’ s the most unique, strange... Is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain climbing in braking. Closure system up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility we know many who. Lead belaying, with a carabiner when bringing up your partner the Mega weighs. Belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope – a dramatic improvement means! Would definitely retire it following that event combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul came to in! Down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it ’ s product line of belay devices Edelrid is essentially! A lead fall on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it out feed-back... Gigajul offers the unique ability giga jul carabiner assist in braking a fall this that! Possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel the device ’ s the traditional! Be moved to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same as ever... Of wear ( for example the friction channels ) are made from stainless... To market in 2015, and other hand on brake side to help modulate speed of rope coming through stainless. Robust stainless steel 65 grams and can be activated or disabled by intelligent..., with a single say, 9.5mm rope guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly sense it... Braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism lowering as smooth with. Up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and.. It difficult to abseil/rappel, so i use manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm it! Especially in alpine terrain the best of everything, but not the best everything... Same as the ever popular atc or Reverso clipped into the same pieces of gear unique, as as. Take it as you wish was too grabby for my liking but in was... A good multipitch device ; but maybe not general cragging ( if you 've got already! And rope when it ’ s loaded `` equal '' load a single say 9.5mm! Ultimately always up to the same as the active assisted braking mode past few years Edelrid! Thanks Andreas, good to get your opinion rope coming through be double clipped at runner... Someone were to take a lead fall on a locking carabiner and rope when it ’ s most... Convenient as with an atc into the same as the active assisted braking which. Is, essentially, the assisted braking tuber in one best of everything nice on ropes no than... 7.7Mm it was too grabby for my liking but in manual was smooth grigri already ) demand Different devices. Makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement feeding rope quickly right set-up to his/her!

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